this post was submitted on 11 Jul 2026
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PC Master Race

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My specs:

  • RX 7800 XT
  • Ryzen 7500F
  • 32GB RAM (Memtested less than a month ago)
  • Seasonic X series 650W (high end PSU from around 10 years ago)

I'm currently running fedora rawhide linux, but I had the same issue on Bluefin Linux Stable and Debian Sid.

When I'm starting to play a demanding game, my system crashes within 5 seconds of loading the level. I wasn't able to reproduce that with stress tests. There's nothing in the logs, they just stop.

I think that's all. I can provide more details. If you can give me meaningful troubleshooting steps, I'm willing to install another system, even windows.

In my opinion the issue is clear, the PSU is old and can't keep up with the GPU, so I should probably replace it.

I don't want to do that, so if you have any other idea, please let me know.

What specs should I aim for for the new PSU?

Edit: I'm cooked, I tried booting the PC to make some tests again, but I'm getting a red motherboard light for CPU. The PC boots tho

Edit2: I found those deals on PSUs. I live in Poland, so prices are at least 25% higher than in the US:

  • Corsair RM850e 2025 for $110
  • FSP VITA GB 750W for $82
  • MSI MAG A750GL for $95
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[–] Uriel_Copy@lemmy.world 1 points 6 hours ago

OP! I had the exact same issue as you, it plagued me for 2 years but I just couldn't nail it down. I had a good quality Corsair PSU, but the kicker was that I had a spare Corsair PSU and I had the same issue. I tried so many things and diagnoses and sometimes it would seem to work, but return sporadically.

I eventually found out it was the VRMs on my motherboard! I can't explain WHY they became temperamental, my board was a B550i which isn't low-end, but was micro ATX so perhaps it was prolonged temperature..?

Anyway - I got a new motherboard and it 100% solved the issue. Same PSU. The old motherboard is now my NAS, it's stable enough without a GPU or display. If you have the opportunity to try another PSU, do it!

[–] artyom@piefed.social 2 points 10 hours ago (1 children)

PSU is typically pretty easy to diagnose. I've had 2 of them fail on me.

The most obvious indicator is a faint click and a sudden near-complete power loss. It won't cause anything to crash, it will just go completely black.

[–] garbage_world@lemmy.world 2 points 9 hours ago

Yep, that's exactly what is happening to me.

[–] Romkslrqusz@lemmy.zip 4 points 13 hours ago (1 children)

After checking temperatures, hooking up a PSU is the next easiest thing you can do to isolate the issue. No need to fully install it - just remove the panel, disconnect your current PSU’s connectors, and then hook up the replacement with the PSU sitting out front.

Not sure how similar it might be in Poland, but in the US some corps have very flexible return policies so I would ‘borrow’ whatever’s convenient and then return it after ordering what I actually want.

Alternatively, your local repair shop could probably do this all within 15 minutes.

[–] SpacetimeMachine@lemmy.world 2 points 11 hours ago

To be clear though, disconnect your current PSU and use the new psus cables. DO NOT use the old cables with the new PSU. Even though they use the same connectors they are not standardized and you can easily fry components this way.

[–] Nollij@sopuli.xyz 6 points 16 hours ago

It certainly seems like your GPU is causing a crash, but it's just as likely (maybe even moreso) that the PSU is behind that.

You can look into things like Furmark, MATS and MODS, etc to drill down further. Northwest Repair has plenty of examples on his YT channel.

Is this a new issue, or has it always been the case with this hardware combo?

If it were me, I'd just get a new (and good) PSU from somewhere with a good return policy. If that doesn't fix it, return the PSU for a GPU. Other people will link to the calculators, and be sure to get a good model from a good brand. Don't cheap out or ignore the subtle details. A bad PSU will pay you back with all sorts of weird, intermittent stability issues.

[–] Zen_Shinobi@lemmy.world 6 points 17 hours ago (1 children)

Go into BIOS and run a check first.

Changing OS really wont help much if the PSU is dying. If you switch to something lightweight (DSL PuppyLinux) all you'te doing is kicking the can further down the road.

[–] garbage_world@lemmy.world 1 points 17 hours ago (1 children)

I said that I'd switch the OS, so people who don't have experience with linux can help.

What do I check in the BIOS?

[–] Zen_Shinobi@lemmy.world 1 points 16 hours ago (1 children)

What I'm saying is switching to Windows or MacOS wont change anything, it's a hardware issue.

BIOS is esc or F10. You have to press one of those a whole bunch as soon as you turn the PC on

[–] garbage_world@lemmy.world 2 points 16 hours ago (1 children)

I know how to enter BIOS. What should I be looking for in there? I don't know any option that could help in my situation

[–] Zen_Shinobi@lemmy.world 1 points 16 hours ago

Run a hardware diagnostic check.

[–] bert_macklin_fbi@lemmy.world 4 points 16 hours ago

If it was a variable amount of time before crashing under load I would have suggested inadequate cooling. Since it's consistent, I'd check your power supply first.

[–] digitalFatteh@lemmy.ca 4 points 16 hours ago (1 children)

Have you used a PSU calculator for the specs of your machine just in case.

HDD and CD drives tend to suck up a fair wattage.

[–] garbage_world@lemmy.world 2 points 16 hours ago (3 children)

I have neither.

PSU calculator showed 632W IIRC.

I bought that PSU used, from a family member for a really good price

[–] Bubs@lemmy.zip 10 points 16 hours ago

I think that right there is your issue. If I were to build a PC with that calculation, I would have, at minimum, gone for a 800W PSU. Mainly for provide a safely margin and also allow for some expansion down the road.

A PSU that is that old isn't likely to be able to keep its peak wattage like it used to. The old electrical components age. I would guess, whatever protection circuitry kicks off the power supply if the power draw goes too high, has likely aged enough to lower that kick-off point. While it could handle 650W while new, maybe now it shuts down at something like 620W.

Your only real option may be to just get a new PSU. As a temporary measure, you could maybe limit the power draw of the GPU. I don't really know how to go about it, but the TDP limit on the Steam Deck immediately came to mind.

[–] Alexstarfire@lemmy.world 3 points 14 hours ago

If that's true, you definitely need a new PSU. You don't want to run that close to the upper limit of power. PSUs, like everything, degrade over time. A 10 year old PSU almost certainly can't maintain max power reliably.

If you want something that'll last and allow room for expansion, I'd get a 1000W PSU.

[–] Wildmimic@anarchist.nexus 1 points 11 hours ago* (last edited 11 hours ago)

For estimates you can subtract about 10% of max wattage per year the PSU has been running, which is a pessimistic take but possible depending on quality of the PSU. I am astounded you can run a stress test without crashing.

[–] sylver_dragon@lemmy.world 2 points 14 hours ago (1 children)

I’m getting a red motherboard light for CPU

Is it flashing, or just solid? Some Motherboards use LEDs to provide a trouble code, this will be a specific sequence of flashes which detail what the problem is. Look at your motherboard manual and see if it has anything about the light and what it might be telling you.

Also, is the system beeping at all? System beeps are a really old method for giving trouble codes. If it is beeping at you, again refer to your manual to figure out what the beeps are telling you.

If you have someone around who can loan you a PSU, that would be an easy test to run. Even if the PSU is underpowered for your GPU, the system should at least POST and let you get into the BIOS.

Once you get it booting, the failure under load could be a couple of issues. It could obviously be the PSU and that is the root of everything. But, there are several things which might be worth checking. Specifically, I'd check the thermal paste on the CPU and GPU. If you've done any work on either recently, it's possible that you got a bad application. That stuff also wears out. My wife's system had a similar crash under load which turned out to be the GPU overheating. That was caused by old thermal paste not working well. Replaced the paste and she got another year out of that card.

[–] garbage_world@lemmy.world 1 points 14 hours ago

The PC works fine-ish. Only 2 signs that something is wrong are that light and the issue explained in my post.

I'm almost absolutely sure nothing is overheating, the temps haven't exceded 80°C in any moment

[–] NarrativeBear@lemmy.world 1 points 13 hours ago* (last edited 13 hours ago) (1 children)

By any change is your GPU sagging even a little?

I had a pc go black screen and reboot on me a few times as the GPU was sagging just a little bit.

Getting a GPU support solved the issue instantly.

Test it out by getting something temporary to support your GPU or lay your pc flat and see if you have the same issue.

You can "temporarily" even use a toilet paper tube

1000063459

Or something more permanent

1000063455

Also there's a bunch of different other options out these, some more hidden then others.

1000063457

[–] garbage_world@lemmy.world 2 points 13 hours ago (1 children)

No, I have a GPU support since day 1

[–] NarrativeBear@lemmy.world 1 points 12 hours ago* (last edited 12 hours ago) (1 children)

Ohh well, thought it would have helped you out.

I guess you may have already tried all the usual troubleshooting as well. Such as pulling out all the PCI cards and trying to boot with just the motherboard a stick of ram, cpu, and hhd/ssd?

Other then that any psu should be fine, I generally go with modular corsair ones. Just make sure you get one that is compatible with your motherboard generation and has sufficient power rating. I generally go with 750 or higher for my builds.

[–] garbage_world@lemmy.world 2 points 11 hours ago

Thanks. I'm too leaning towards the corsair option.

[–] Pogogunner@sopuli.xyz 2 points 16 hours ago

If you do turn out to buy a new PSU, I've been told the rule of thumb is that PSUs operate best at around 50% of their rated capacity. So if your system uses 632 watts, you would want a PSU in the 1200w range. An older power supply rated for 650 at peak is likely not going to be able to keep up with a modern system trying to draw ~630

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus

The wikipedia article on the 80 plus certification program seems to back that up.

[–] Onomatopoeia@lemmy.cafe 2 points 16 hours ago (1 children)

Is it a specific game or with all games?

[–] garbage_world@lemmy.world 1 points 16 hours ago (1 children)
[–] Onomatopoeia@lemmy.cafe 1 points 7 hours ago

I think you're right that it's likely a hardware issue since it happens with all demanding games and it's pretty instant.

I would think it's either the power supply or video card.

Can you set the video settings super low and run the game? This may help clarify where the problem comes from.

[–] Mantzy81@aussie.zone 1 points 15 hours ago (1 children)

Get the Corsair. You could look at the PSU tier list but the RM850 will be close to the top so just pay the little bit extra imo. Plus more headroom.

And be grateful you're not stuck with a case that can only take SF or SFL PSUs

[–] garbage_world@lemmy.world 1 points 15 hours ago (1 children)

Are you speaking from experience?

[–] Mantzy81@aussie.zone 1 points 6 hours ago

With Corsair PSUs, yes.

From having a (cooler master) 650w PSU struggling to supply my 9070xt and 7800x3d, yes.

From going through the tier list and seeing which PSU manufacturers are rated highly consistently, yes.

From facing a case that only allows for smaller form factor PSUs, also sadly yes - I have an SF1000 for the additional headroom for when I next upgrade my GPU