Stampela

It’s not “just WiFi”. It’s 6ghz WiFi 7, and the higher the frequency, the lower the range/obstacle penetration… In general, lower frequencies have longer range but have less capacity. The 5 GHz bands are absorbed to a greater degree by common building materials than the 2.4 GHz bands and usually give a shorter range. How much will that impact things? Don’t know, but honestly I don’t think the placement of the connector on your computer should be a problem :)

I think I’ve given a cursory look at those a year or two ago. The main things I remember are that they are SMALL, and at least one model lacked a heated bed. The heated bed helps immensely with adhesion (will your print stick or just get dislodged, failing the job?) and the size is a practical constraint. For example resin printers can do exceptional quality items, but they’re going to be small. Pick a measuring tape of any kind, go measure a thing you’d like to make like maybe a pen holder or whatever you actually think you will want to print. I had a Monoprice Mini Select and it was a 12cm base, good for a lot, small for a lot. That thing can do a 10cm base. A quick visualization is that you will not squeeze a phone cover in that space!

Seen your post, and my DE is also KDE plasma. I’m not 100% sure if I have the same issue with the pointer (easy to blame it on the game after all) but I’ve been able to do a test reboot with it plugged in and not have the issues I mentioned. That said I have not tried to do anything with grub so I have no data to contribute there.

Multiple reboots, it’d looks like it’s reviving when I unplugged the puck, and when I did the next reboot without the puck it went smoothly. Nobara Linux, it’s from the Proton GE guy.

Mine arrived too, and I’m puzzled by the triggers: they’re smooth! No texture at all. Other than that no hardware issues but the puck… my system doesn’t like it, at least after the latest update. With “doesn’t like it” I mean that I tried American Truck Simulator and I couldn’t get it to run well enough to use any menu and killing it was more about doing so via Steam… that would need to be force closed too. And at reboot? It wouldn’t mount my internal drives! I think it’s the latest firmware, because I could play PowerWash Simulator without any trouble. On the bright side, if it’s firmware, it can be fixed.

Lucky you, I’m stuck trying to get past the “yes, use my wallet credit” screen :(

It was a good plan to preload it yesterday… but plans and reality. You know.

Edit: 31 minutes later, it went in! With a warning about shipping times due to high volume of orders, but it went in.

Wait, let me understand this. Is your link something official? Like, reliable? Because come on Gabe, less time on Aliexpress ordering random valves with the company card!

Ah! It’s even more visible there than on their page, leave it to me to find the hardest way lol

Also, while during gameplay it’s true that depending on the game there’s no real difference with a ssd, the speed is a matter of standard: you aren’t going to fall for a usb 2 drive boasting 1gb of speeds! But the UHS-I standard is far less known and they can make their out of standard reader, so while in practice it’s nonsense, it’s also technically correct and that’s probably the one thing keeping things from being false advertising.

(My point was that it’s important to make informed purchases, get whatever has the best price/performance for your use while being aware of that kind of marketing shenanigans)

FYI it’s 104, not 150. https://www.sandisk.com/products/memory-cards/microsd-cards/sandisk-ultra-uhs-i-microsd?sku=SDSQUNC-016G-AN6MA At the bottom: “engineered with proprietary technology to reach speeds beyond UHS-I 104MB/s, require compatible devices capable of reaching such speed.” or in other words, it does that only with their own reader.

It’s not fully comparable. Basically Microsoft, as it seems to be the default, messed things up by making the Xbox: sure, before that the computer gamepad situation was chaotic, but after, they created the de facto standard that is the Xbox controller. Is a feature on that controller? No? Well, nobody else will have it then. Back buttons are really just there for ergonomics because with a thumb over each stick you get no access to face buttons but back ones can be remapped to those. It’s cool! But also the only thing they can really do. Steam Controller/Deck? Thanks to Steam input, more or less anything you want! Mouse click? Sure. Pop up menu with a bunch of options? Obviously. The game supports Steam input? Then you can bind them to anything the game offers. As a super basic thing, you end up with a controller that has two analogs, a d-pad, “not anymore start and select”, a “home” button, 4 face buttons, two shoulder buttons, two triggers, two trackpads, a gyro and four back buttons. I have a GameSir Cyclone 2, and I’m eagerly waiting for the Steam Controller 2 as it’ll be a meaningful upgrade even if at first glance the only missing feature are the trackpads.

This could be two things, aside from what you considered. Did you increase the speed? Because if I remember correctly the SV06 has a bit of a wimpy cooling system, and as opposed to the SV07, no extra fan on the back. Another thing to consider is that sometimes you just have a filament that is stringy, did you try a different one, or so far it’s your only option?