badposting
badposting is a comm where you post badly
This is not a !the_dunk_tank@hexbear.net alternative. This is not a !memes@hexbear.net alternative. This is a place for you to post your bad posts.
Ever had a really shitty bit idea? Joke you want to take way past the point of where it was funny? Want to feel like a stand-up comedy guy who's been bombing a set for the past 30 minutes straight and at this point is just saying shit to see if people react to it? Really bad pun? A homemade cringe concoction? A cognitohazard that you have birthed into this world and have an urge to spread like chain mail?
Rules:
- Do not post good posts.
- Unauthorized goodposting is to be punished in the manner of commenting the phrase "GOOD post" followed by an emoji that has not yet been used in the thread
- Use an emoticon/kaomoji/rule-three-abiding ASCII art if the rations run out
- This is not a comm where you direct people to other people's bad posts. This is a comm where you post badly.
- This rule intentionally left blank.
- If you're struck for rule 3, skill issue, not allowed to complain about it.
Code of Conduct applies just as much here as it does everywhere else. Technically, CoC violations are bad posts. On the other hand: L + ratio + get ~~better~~ worse material bozo
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On modern cars, the issue is that if you go too long without changing your fluid, as it loses viscosity, the clutch plates will wear down and the friction material from the plates will end up circulating in the gearbox oil. If you change the transmission fluid at that point, you reduce the amount of friction material circulating in the fluid and you may or may not start experiencing hard or missed shifts, depending on the condition of the clutch plates when you did the fluid change. The temporary fix is to add some "friction modifier" (e.g., Lubegard) and keep up on fluid changes, but at that point the damage is already done and you will eventually need to rebuild or replace the whole transmission. (And if you do a full fluid flush instead of just a drain-and-fill, you risk dislodging some debris and getting it into the valve body, potentially clogging control valves.)
This is especially a pain in the ass on newer vehicles with "sealed" transmissions -- even if it has had every scheduled service performed, the dealer will often skip transmission fluid because "it's a sealed unit," when it's just a different style of overflow with no dipstick. Condensation absolutely still gets in there. Thanks a lot, Toyota.
Thank you for taking the time to explain this, I have learned something today. That does sound like a persistent piece of folk knowledge even if the machines that it pertains to haven't been manufactured in 30+ years. I'll have to check service records but I think I've kept up to date with transmission fluid changes, if not I'm pretty sure the cost to eventually repair or replace would be greater than the value of my ride.
It usually is, and it has only gotten more expensive in recent years. Before you get your fluid changed, get a (free) sample test kit from Blackstone Labs (not that Blackstone) so that you can send it back for used oil analysis. Used oil analysis is like $50 from them (on their "pay for samples" page, it's the Oil + TAN test), and the analysis will give a breakdown of things like acidity and presence of wear metals so you have an inkling of just how fucked your transmission is. If you decide to go through with it, start with a drain-and-fill and get your oil sample from that.
I can't decide whether I sound more like a bot or if "not having my car's transmission blow up" is my special interest
A bot would never have useful in-context information like this, thank you for taking the time.