this post was submitted on 27 Sep 2025
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badposting

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badposting is a comm where you post badly


This is not a !the_dunk_tank@hexbear.net alternative. This is not a !memes@hexbear.net alternative. This is a place for you to post your bad posts.

Ever had a really shitty bit idea? Joke you want to take way past the point of where it was funny? Want to feel like a stand-up comedy guy who's been bombing a set for the past 30 minutes straight and at this point is just saying shit to see if people react to it? Really bad pun? A homemade cringe concoction? A cognitohazard that you have birthed into this world and have an urge to spread like chain mail?


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  2. This is not a comm where you direct people to other people's bad posts. This is a comm where you post badly.
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Code of Conduct applies just as much here as it does everywhere else. Technically, CoC violations are bad posts. On the other hand: L + ratio + get ~~better~~ worse material bozo

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[–] mickey@hexbear.net 5 points 3 days ago (5 children)

Nah I only use natural oil from the ground. The devil put those dinosaur bones down there to trick us into believing EVIL-ution, so we may as well use them for something GOOD and lube up our cars innards all slick like Jesus intended for us.

Someone on here joked about how if you leave transmission fluid long enough without maintenance, all the sludge and flecks of metal become structurally integral to your transmission's workings? Well my car is like that with motor oil, I change it on schedule but I need all the natural impurities to gum up the works and keeping everything flowing like it should. You wouldn't tell a 95 year old to stop smoking, would you? The stress might kill them and for all we know the cigarettes are what's keeping them alive!

[–] 30_to_50_Feral_PAWGs@hexbear.net 5 points 3 days ago (4 children)

Someone on here joked about how if you leave transmission fluid long enough without maintenance, all the sludge and flecks of metal become structurally integral to your transmission's workings?

theory-gary With older slushbox automatic transmissions (pre-1990s), there was this belief that the oil sludge from degraded automatic transmission fluid would work its way into the seals, and that changing the fluid would cause the fresh fluid's detergent content to eat away the layer of sludge that had inadvertently patched the seals.

On modern cars, the issue is that if you go too long without changing your fluid, as it loses viscosity, the clutch plates will wear down and the friction material from the plates will end up circulating in the gearbox oil. If you change the transmission fluid at that point, you reduce the amount of friction material circulating in the fluid and you may or may not start experiencing hard or missed shifts, depending on the condition of the clutch plates when you did the fluid change. The temporary fix is to add some "friction modifier" (e.g., Lubegard) and keep up on fluid changes, but at that point the damage is already done and you will eventually need to rebuild or replace the whole transmission. (And if you do a full fluid flush instead of just a drain-and-fill, you risk dislodging some debris and getting it into the valve body, potentially clogging control valves.)

This is especially a pain in the ass on newer vehicles with "sealed" transmissions -- even if it has had every scheduled service performed, the dealer will often skip transmission fluid because "it's a sealed unit," when it's just a different style of overflow with no dipstick. Condensation absolutely still gets in there. Thanks a lot, Toyota.

[–] mickey@hexbear.net 4 points 3 days ago (1 children)

Thank you for taking the time to explain this, I have learned something today. That does sound like a persistent piece of folk knowledge even if the machines that it pertains to haven't been manufactured in 30+ years. I'll have to check service records but I think I've kept up to date with transmission fluid changes, if not I'm pretty sure the cost to eventually repair or replace would be greater than the value of my ride.

[–] 30_to_50_Feral_PAWGs@hexbear.net 6 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (1 children)

It usually is, and it has only gotten more expensive in recent years. Before you get your fluid changed, get a (free) sample test kit from Blackstone Labs (not that Blackstone) so that you can send it back for used oil analysis. Used oil analysis is like $50 from them (on their "pay for samples" page, it's the Oil + TAN test), and the analysis will give a breakdown of things like acidity and presence of wear metals so you have an inkling of just how fucked your transmission is. If you decide to go through with it, start with a drain-and-fill and get your oil sample from that.

I can't decide whether I sound more like a bot or if "not having my car's transmission blow up" is my special interest side-eye-1

[–] mickey@hexbear.net 2 points 2 days ago (1 children)

A bot would never have useful in-context information like this, thank you for taking the time.

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